Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation are reluctant to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these narratives and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
